With a recent nod from Bon Appetit magazine as one of the country’s most exciting Mexican restaurants, Trebol is exuding confidence and playfulness. Chef-owner Kenny Hill uses local, seasonal foods, enlivening regional Mexican fare with prime asparagus, beets and spinach. Hill updates the menu every three to four weeks, but he wisely preserves perennial favorites — roughly mashed guacamole with caramelized garlic and enormously satisfying chilaquiles with braised beef.

Recommended: Spot prawns in chipotle adobo, a sweet-and-sizzling sauce offset by ethereal fried onions; house guacamole; grilled pork loin; homemade flatbread topped with braised chicken, black beans and avocado salsa; chocolate-walnut tart and the kitchen’s ice creams. The gorgeous backlit bar holds 70 fine tequilas, which are best enjoyed straight and sipped slowly.
OCTOBER, 2008